This is a common question I get from time to time and completely understandable. We care about our pets and if we didn't we would not raise the infamous question. Pretty simple and very much to the point. When I get this question it is 98% of the time regarding a gecko the size of a hatchling to juvenile and possibly first time Crested Gecko owners. So why isn't this gecko eating? It's obviously not eating because the food is still in the bowl the next day, right.
Wrong, the first thing to look for is feces from the gecko. It's hard to distinguish how much food is consumed when offering fruit puree like Crested Gecko Diet but if the gecko recently defecated then you can safely assume the gecko is eating. Often times we do not consider the size of the stomach that these small geckos have and in relation, the amount of food eaten is often the size of the tip of a pencil.
Tip: Use paper towel or bare floor on the bottom of the cage. This will allow you to monitor for feces a lot easier.
OK, with the paper towel down and a week of offering food I still do not see any feces. You can safely assume at this point the gecko is not eating. This could be because the Crested Gecko is new to the surroundings and if so needs time to acclimate to their new home, environment (temperature, humidity, etc.) traffic, and even different food.
Tip: Find out how the gecko is kept from the person or place you purchased the gecko and mimic those surroundings and environment. Next the gecko will only need to get accustomed to traffic around the cage and the feeding schedule. If a gecko is eating a certain flavor of Crested Gecko Diet I also try to offer that flavor specifically for the new gecko.
It's been over a week and the Crested Gecko should be accustomed to the new home. Still no poop! What to do? Start offering Crested Gecko Diet to the gecko with a couple drops of added honey. Dab the gecko food on the tip of the mouth and allow for the gecko to lick the food off itself. Repeat this process until the gecko refuses to eat anymore. Generally speaking, we do about three to four decent sized dabs. Place the gecko in the enclosure next to the food dish. You can also offer live crickets. A healthy Crested Gecko will not turn town live feeder insects, especially crickets.
If your gecko continues to refuse food, you will want to take the gecko to the vet. Make the trip as comfortable as possible. Using a large-sized Kritter Keeper with places to hide and paper towel as substrate. Make sure that everything listed below is provided for your gecko.
- Temperatures above 70F and below 80F.
- Humidity between 60 and 80% with a period of the day falling below 60% to allow the enclosure to dry out and prevent bacteria.
- Fresh Crested Gecko Diet is provided three times a week leaving the dish in the enclosure until the following night when fresh food is provided.
- Cage size is appropriate for the size of the gecko. A hatchling is not living in an 18L x 18W x 24H cage but is in a Medium to Large Kritter Keeper or 5-10 gallon cage.
- The cage is not in front of a window or high traffic area like a hallway.
- Daylight is provided for 10-12 hours a day to simulate a proper day/night cycle.
- The cage has plenty of hiding places and the gecko is not housed with multiple geckos ranging in size, bigger than them.
- Water is provided as a water bowl and misting for the gecko to lap up droplets.
You can read more about the proper care with our
Crested Gecko Care Sheet
We also offer Crested Gecko Diet in multiple flavors to appeal to picky eaters,
Crested Gecko Diet